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Chippendale Mirror Plan Free Project Plan

The Chippendale period, as we now designate it, was from 1750 to 1785. The name derives from Thomas Chippendale of London, England, whose book of 1754 titled The Gentleman and Cabinet Maker's Directory widely popularized the furniture style characterized by graceful outline and ornate or elaborate ornamentation. It was the most complete and comprehensive furniture manual that had ever been published. The book provided inspiration for craftsmen in the American colony as well as in many other countries throughout the world.

The moulding profile of the top, bottom, and sides of the frame can be made using a combination of router or shaper bits. If you plan to make many mirrors for resale, you might want to have a custom router bit made up. These are not very expensive and will save a lot of time and do a very professional job.

Instructions

Step 1
Cut all of the pieces to overall size according to the materials list. Sand all surfaces down with a fine grit of sandpaper; this will save you from having to do a lot of finish-sanding later.

Step 2
Cut the moulding profile shape of the face of the top, bottom, and two sides. (It is a good idea to make a few extra pieces just in case you make an error cutting.) Make the rabbet cut in the back according to the plans for the mirror.

Step 3
Make exact 45-degree mitre cuts at the ends of the top, bottom, and side pieces as shown in the plans.

Step 4
Glue the frame together. Be sure to keep all of the corners at exactly 90 degrees. After the glue sets, cut notches for the top, bottom, and side scrolls, as shown in the drawings. Refer carefully to the plans as you make the project.

Step 5
On a sheet of paper draw a 1/2-inch grid. Lay out the top, bottom, and side scrolls. Transfer each pattern to the wood.

Important: Before cutting out, check that the distance across the mirror frame is exactly the same dimension as your scroll patterns. This is very important. Carefully cut out the top and bottom scroll.

Step 6
All that is left to do now is to glue the scroll(s) to the frame subassembly. After the glue sets, add the brace(s).

Step 7
Re-sand all over using very fine sandpaper. Then, cut the back board to size according lo the plans. Sand all over once again.

Step 8
Apply a siain of your choice as you wish. If you use a wood such as walnut, mahogany, or even cherry, you may not want to apply a stain. Apply four or five satin finish top-coats such as tung oil. Lightly sand between coats using 0000 steel wool. Add a coat of paste wax and your mirror frame is ready for the mirror. (Continued below)

Step 9
Add the mirror and back board, as shown, wilh square-cut finish nails.

Step 10
Clean and polish the mirror, and your wall mirror is ready to sell or hang, perfect for any room.

No.	Name	Size	Required
1	Side	3/4 x 15/16 - 12 1/4 Lg.	2
2	Top-Bottom	3/4 x 15/16 - 10 1/8 Lg.	2
3	Spline	1/8 x 1/4 - 15/16 Lg.	4
4	Top Scroll	3/16 x 5 7/16 - 10 1/8	1
5	Bottom Scroll	3/16 x 3 5/16 - 10 1/8	1
6	Top/Side Scroll	3/16 x 1 13/16 - 4 1/2	2
7	Bottom/Side Scroll	3/16 x 1 5/8 - 4 1/8	2
8	Brace	7/16 x 1/2 - 5 1/8 Lg.	1
9	Block Top	3/8 x 1/2 - 3 Long.	2
10	Block Bottom	3/8 x 1/2 - 2 Long.	2
11	Block Top/Side	3/8 x 1/2 - 1 1/2 Long.	2
12	Block Bottom/Side	3/8 x 1/2 - 1 Long.	2
13	Mirror	3/32 x 8 13/16 - 10 15/16	1
14	Back Board	1/4 x 8 7/8 - 11 Long.	1
15	Wedge	1/8 x 1/8 - 3/8 Long.	8
16	Finish Nail	3/4 Long	8

 
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