
This modern bookcase is simple and functional. It is an ideal weekend
project for beginning to intermediate woodworkers. You can adjust
the lengths of the pieces to suit available wall lengths, if you
wish.
Because it
is so strong, solid red oak is a good wood to use. The unsupported
span of shelf, nearly three feet, requires a sturdy wood to keep
the shelf from sagging under a full load of books. You can use a
weaker wood,
provided that you shorten the length of the bookshelf so that the
unsupported span is reduced. Clear white pine, for example, should
not be used in shelf spans exceeding 24 inches.

Step
1
Cut wood to size according to the materials list. The back board,
part 4, and kick board, part 5, are ripped to width after the sides,
parts 1, and shelves, parts 2.
The radial-arm
saw is the best tool for cutting the parts to length. Once the radial-arm
saw is adjusted for square cuts, it may be easily set up for multiple
operations. Set the saw up to square one end of each shelf, then
slide the shelf to the other side of the table for the second cut.
Use a stop block clamped to the radial-arm saw fence on the second
cut, so that all of the shelves are exactly the same length. In
three settings the cutting is done. The shelves, parts 2, are cut
at 47 inches, the kick board and the back board at 46 1/2 inches,
and the sides, parts 1, at 42 inches. Check to be sure the corresponding
parts are square and the same length.
Sept 2
Lay out the dado locations in the end parts. A 3/4-inch dado bit
will leave a clean, flat-bottomed cut ready to be glued and assembled.
Step 3
Cut the top front angle of each board.
Step 4
Sand or plane all parts prior to assembly.
Step 5
The shelves are now assembled with glue and screws. The screw holes
are predrilled in the end boards first. The screws are countersunk
to allow for plugs.
Note: Check the squareness of the case by measuring across the diagonals
from opposite corners on the face of the bookcase.
Step 6
Insert the top brace and kick board; screw in place. The kick board
is designed not to touch the floor. The small gap left beneath the
kick board will keep the bookcase resting square on the end boards
in case there is a slight hump in the floor.
Step 7
Cut plugs for the screw holes; glue in place with the grain of the
plug following the grain in the end boards. Careful selection of
plugs by color and grain will make the plug almost unnoticeable
after sanding and finishing. Let the plugs stand proud of the finish
surface while the glue dries. Later sand, file or shave the plugs
to the finished surface. Then finish sanding.
Step 8
The bookcase in the photograph was finished with four coats of "golden
oak" oil finish; each applied one day apart. The third and
fourth coats were whisk-sanded smooth with 360-grit sandpaper, and
then a coat of wax was applied. To maintain the finish use a fine
furniture polish.
| No. | Name | Size | Required |
| 1 | Side | 3/4 x 9 1/2 - 52 Long. | 2 |
| 2 | Shelf | 3/4 x 9 1/2 - 34 3/4 Long. | 4 |
| 3 | Shelf | 3/4 x 9 - 34 3/4 Long. | 1 |
| 4 | Back Board | 3/4 x 7 3/4 - 34 1/4 Long. | 1 |
| 5 | Kick Board | 3/4 x 3 1/2 - 34 1/4 Long. | 1 |
| 6 | Screw-Flat Head | No. 8 - 2" Long | 8 |
| 7 | Wood Plug | 1/2 Dia. | 8 |